For the fifth show of day one at London Fashion Week AW14, we see Fyodor Golan. The design duo comprised of Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman who have flourished into household names since their winning of the fashion fringe award in 2011. They have since taken part in the V&A’s Fashion in motion show in 2012 which proved a huge success and have been bringing us ethereally titled collections such as Flowers of Evil and Electric Children since they’re Pagan Poetry pivotal collection for AW11.
AW14 is the year that sees the duo as part of the Swarovski collective, making one of fifteen designers collaborating with Swarovski using and experimenting with Swarovski Elements in their collections and for those following the duo via twitter and instagram, followers had been treated to teaser illustrations and photos of their newest collection and all we knew was that pink was certainly on the cards.
With everyone sitting in their seats anticipating the show, invite in hand in EC1, the show begun.
A skirt made of phones showing film took Fyodor Golan into the digital age with a textile innovation to set the tone to their collection. The interactive skirt was made of 35 Noki Lumia 1520 phones. “As the skirt moves, images on the screens change colour, creating a synchronised shimmering effect that emulates real-world fabric. To form this illusion, a bespoke app was conceived that employs GPS technology to align the wearer’s movements with the skirt’s sparkle.” – Luke, Nokia
KIN also worked alongside Nokia and Fyodor Golan to create this bespoke piece of innovative fashion.
The catwalk was elementary, well, a pink plastic astroturf lawn, thus leaving the opulence to their Crocodile collection.
Once everyone was seated, after last minute preps, the lights went down, and through a spotlight, emerged the light which lit up the room ready for model one. Metallic clad. The metalics were sombre and darkened whilst models entwined through the audience on exiting the catwalk.
Shimmers of red on metallic, Swarovski elements present, shiny, textured, deep blues and all wrapped over models. Braided hair was what it was all about, courtesy of Space.NK.apothecary and a strong red lip, not to mention the spectacles.
Fabric manipulations and texture contrasting was highlight present, something present in all Fyodor Golan collections. Logo sweater in silver monogram on shimmering red, emerald dress with red shoe and then pink on green emerged. Metallic pinks, green pant-skirt combo and overcoat and a pink hat was truly a delight whilst pink coats & dress with deeper red/pink accents, including the covetable pant-suit was heavily present.
Plastics and fluffiness. Men clad in pinks and metallic showed off Fyodor Golan’s tailoring skills, somewhat different to past collections but remaining was the fierce attitude, high concepts and great execution. Space/matrix-like at its most fashionable.
The collection changed, because somewhat more feminine, with lighter fabrics, a lighter colour palette of printed fabrics of blue and orange tones, then boom, back to the heavy red, metallic luxe look. The oversized orange/red gillet over dark metallic was a personal favourite. Styled perfectly for maximum effect. Its simplicity was beautiful yet there was an element of intricacy of the concept and details which truly shone.
The red Swarovski bralet top under dark metallic as shown in the Swarovski collective teaser the designers posted on twitter was a true highlight. An anticipated piece which was executed with such intricacy, detail and lavishness made this a superb example of their talents. The dresses which followed, became more Fyodor-Golan-esque in comparison to previous collections with their inter alluring structure and fabric choice.
For the final walk, we saw a 17-model-piece finale and the duo emerged, receiving much applause, and Fyodor wearing a sweater with holographic logo no doubt.