As Rejina Pyo’s AW14 collection is sold at Harvey Nichols and on Avenue 32, it is easy to see how this 2011, Central Saint Martins MA graduate, has begun making a name for herself. Solid structures, simple lines and graphic prints are what are making Pyo, a prosperous designer.
Dare i admit it, I first became aware of Pyo when i picked up my copy of InStyle Uk and sat down with nothing other than a ton of coffee whilst basking in fashion glory. What struck me first was the image of this slender framed woman, draping a pale pink fabric over the lifeless mannequin; reminding me of Tomoko Nakamichi’s delicate yet powerful pieces, i ripped out the page and began scribbling over it, as one does with every page i keep.
“I think art and fashion share a lot of things. It’s something that you want to look at, there is often an element of surprise, it can be beautiful or ugly and ultimately, it is a matter of taste. The boundary between art and fashion is always somewhat blurred, so I wanted to experiment with a more direct approach. I did not want to create fashion garments that could be worn. Instead, I wanted to create sculptural artwork that is inspired by the forms of garments. So none of the pieces are wearable, although at first glance they look like dresses or garments. Then when you get up close, you can see that the pieces are actually made out of coloured aluminium plate, tinted acyclic, and horsehair bonded between silk and cotton.” Quote, from a 2013 Interview with 1granary.com
With the 2012 Han Nefkens Fashion Award under her belt already, and a host of publications in some of the UK’s most influential fashion press, as well as collaborations and business endeavors, it opens up the question, what makes this somewhat underrated designer so highly regarded? Having worked alongside creatives of H&M, CELINE, Roksanda Ilincic and Christopher Raeburn, to name but a few, creating her own label in 2012, was seemingly the correct career path to take; It’s easy to put her into that bracket of designer brands in terms of aesthetics, but Pyo’s own creative marks, are very much her own. Looking through her SS14 and AW14 collections, the most captivating and enthralling characteristic of her pieces must be their timeless nature with contemporary silhouettes and a playful edge.
Power-dressing has been given a new lease of life; extricating our humdrum workwear or life-lacking-wardrobes, for fashion which is still often classic in colour and cut, but deconstructed ever so slightly; off-balancing symmetrical shapes, combining various fabrics in a piece, to create contrasts as well as beautiful marriages of pattern and texture. With some creative pattern-cutting, no simple white-shirt is without characteristic. Whether sharp and oversized, or tapered and metallic, Pyo is certainly a designer to watch for innovative edge.