It was September and the works of Georgia O’Keeffe were embodied in the SS15 collection of Eudon Choi. Now, on a somewhat dull day in London, Eudon Choi’s AW15 gave us something entirely different. Marlene Dietrich would be proud.
Today, as the fashionable crowds battled the light winds and possibility of rain outside of the BFC Courtyard Show Space, the inside, was a different story entirely. In the days before the show, @eudonchoi kept us all anticipating the show, with tweets about MAC Cosmetics and @adammakeup (Adam de Cruz, known his work on Viktor magazine and Stimuli Magazine)- for their work on Choi’s AW15 beauty looks. He also tweeted the planning of the seating chart, as well as retweeting people’s comments whom had already previewed some of the collection; this only had us more intrigued. Another Instagram sneak-preview showed us that the hair was knotted, the eye-makeup was animal-like and all courtesy of @naokikomiya, @bumbleandbumble and @julianwatsonagency.
Around the time of 12:30, there was of course, the expected delay start of any show to this scale. The room was dim and the usual flashes of excitable cameras danced in the room, snapping the impeccable frow.
The music rose in the darkness and lit the staging area. Stone-grey blocks with rising red pipes adored the catwalk; a motif of the show perhaps? Yes, it certainly was.
To name but a few highlighted accents of the collection, would go like this:
Blocks of fabrics emulating the staging.
Chunky-knitted capes, fringed to perfection
Shift dresses and vests only one could hope to ever wear
Oversized shirts, with a structure of their own; one that can only be described as a little ‘Tomoko Nakamichi-esque’
A daringly bright pink stipe against burnt orange.
But this wouldn’t be enough to describe the detail, precision and work of this collection. With a tantalising use of fabrics and shapes and the designers ability and creativity to pass shapes and motifs through a collection, in a way which does not just tie the collection together nicely, but entices an audience as they mentally engage with what is come next, is truly a delight on the eyes. For some time, Choi presents us with sharp lines, blocks of colours and contrasting fabrics, before the abruptness of huge circular fabrics on the side of a jacket. Splits in jackets and leather jackets. Layering was a huge part of the show. Layering, which can often be a daunting, haphazard task of dressing, is pulled off to create the most precisely rugged looks.
What i will call the first portion of the show, was very well executed. The structure of the garments were made to perfection and the laying and wearability of the pieces were enough to empower every woman to wear this collection. It’s not so much that the first collection were dull, as it were not, but after some time, one wonders as to how Choi will truly amaze. Because after all, Eudon Choi is a designer who was gained much accolade for his work, as this show, may just be the first to include such a plethora of pieces-per-piece, if you catch my way of thinking; A little remincient of his Resort SS15 collection perhaps. But it wasn’t until the emergence of metallic until Eudon Choi had gained my soul.
The ochre metallic of skirts peeking beneath jackets lured me in. What was to come next?
It’s safe to say, that’s when Eudons creative talents shone and seduced, what i can only assume as every single woman in the audience; with fabrics of such lustre and desirable shapes.
Possibly, the most beautiful shift dresses to fall upon ones eyes. Colour-blocking with a yellow exterior and blue interior; asymmetric, flaring, striking and styled beautifully. But still, that which remains engrained in my mind, was that which came after another version of the shift. Were it a vest or were it dress? Red, black and yellow panels all entwined in an oversized, seemingly vivacious garment.
The latter of the collection, from the shift dresses onwards, would certainly make Marlene Dietrich proud. For any modern Dietrich, the play on suits and tailoring were perfection. And though there were some friction between the first bout of looks and the second, what can be said for certain, is that it has been an approachable, wearable and tantalising collection.