The Spring/Summer 2017 Ready-To-Wear shows in New York have ended. From Skylight at Moynihan Station, to Milk Studios and MADE, New York Fashion Week took over the streets and venues of Manhattan. Some designers made history, others made ethical choices and some reinvented styles surely missed.
A: American Woman
Ralph Lauren embodies the American Woman. A core heritage brand of American aristocracy, the American dream and the Ralph Lauren lifestyle.
Outside the Ralph Lauren flagship women’s store, at Madison Avenue and 72nd Street, a glass structure was erected for the show- “jewel box at 888 Madison”; that became Lauren’s first runway-to-retail show, making history with his SS17 collection.
The collection had both elements of western dress, and elegant-wear as expected of one of America’s most fabled designers.
Both on and off the catwalk, bright colours had their place. From entire outfits, to accessories, details and beauty.
Citrus was the hottest colour of the Vivienne Tam collection. Dresses and skirts were adorned in floral embroidery and fabric badges, whilst the colour itself was the perfect shade of what could have been an overwhelming orange.
Vivienne Tam also became the first fashion designer to use NASA’s logo in a collection.
Double-demin. Denim patches. Denim accessories. The staple fabric of course appeared in svevel collections, from Louis Verdad who debuted his new denim-focused line, to Carolina Herrera who used denim for a modern take on elegant occasion-wear.
For her show at the Fifth Avenue’s Frick Collection, Herrera delved into the archives of her inaugural 1981 collection, and with a twist of denim, reinvented a glamorous collection, into one fit for the modern-day:
“…this season’s looks were less grand gestures and marginally more street wise than haute couture style.”– Suzy Menkes, Vogue.co.uk
Jonathan Simkhai, Naeem Khan, Sunno and many other collections brought embroidery to the forefront. Small details of embroidery, fully-embroidered garments and modern twists, brought this traditional textile craft into high fashion at full force.
Fringe is at its most dramatic when it’s strutting down the catwalk. Seen at Ralph Lauren, Naeem Khan, Tadashi Shoji to name a few, it became one of the most coveted trends of the SS17 collections.
Gold will always be a metallic staple, and it was seen at its best on the streets. Metalics were seen more often in the SS17 beauty trends, though making smaller appearances in jewellery, accessories and the occasional garment.
Anniesa Hasibuan, the first designer to bring a collection entirely with Hijabs, used gold repeatedly and in many ways. Gold fabrics, crystals, embellishments and trimmings, entwined not just in making catwalk history, but in creating a glamours, albeit wearable collection.
H: High Waist
Mixing and matching a high-waisted jean with anything from a ruffled shirt, to a crop-top. Seen less on the catwalk and spotted more frequently along the streets of Manhattan, a high-waisted bottom is a staple trend.
Taking us back to Prada SS14, was Illustration on and off the catwalk. Vivienne Tam’s badges and Prabal Gurung’s floral embellishments had illustration qualities to the craft with dainty, sketch-like marks and free-form-like details.
J: Jump In
The most fashionable pool party of NYFW came from Thom Browne. Bright floral swim hats, duster coats and sandals. A turquoise-tiled floor and tropical-printed shirts. Their coats came off to reveal tailored garments, though in a technologically-advanced time, were outfits pressed together by a computer to 2D as well as outfits that were stitches, not separates.
Alexander Wang’s collection also brought a collection heavy in swimwear as well as Chromat who were deemed “High-fashion, high-concept provocation” by Vogue.
K: Knots and Ties
Knots and ties are inevitable both on the catwalk and on the streets. A knot or tie has the ability to transform any piece of fabric instantly.
There is an art to layering, and Coach went all out. A great way to utilise an entire wardrobe of clothing and accessories, as well as transforming the same few items often and instantly, is by layering. Lace under leather adorned in jewels, or mesh under pleated silk, beneath jacquards, tweeds or heavy brocades.
Gender neutrality has been rising amongst fashion recently, and Band Of Outsiders have proven how clothing can be genderless. The L.A brand have risen from bankruptcy with their SS17 collection of sports jackets, baggy pants, tailed jackets and flowing dresses. A combination of styles we are seeing more of, crossing both menswear and womenswear.
Nails were all the rage. Painted, decorated, foiled and otherwise. Creatures of the Wind kept it simple along with Brock, Kate Spade and Tibi. Geometric nails were seen at Novis, Cushine Et Ochs and Christian Siriano, but metallic nails were by far the most common trend. Rodarte and Michael Costello joined the many, whilst it was Phillip Lim who took it one step further with a 3D metallic manicure.
Off-the-shoulder looks can be both elegant and fun. Variations of the off-the-shoulder was one of the most coveted looks of the Self-Portrait collection. Cold-shoulders and half-off-the-shoulder looks were frequent and well executed, whilst the collection as a whole has become a much-talked about for its high-end style and affordability.
Clashing patterns should not be feared both on and off the catwalk. Diane Von Furstenberg, Thom Browne and Michael Kors all had their part to play.
Prabal Gurung decided to use his collection to make a statement. The show notes read: “To my mother, who always wanted to change the idea that the higher you go, the fewer women there are”.
Quotes featured on the yokes of garments, around the bottom of trousers and on t-shirts in glitter, whilst one dress had a feminist newspaper-like reference printed directly onto a dress, entwined with printed flowers.
Carolina Herrera delved into her archives, whilst reviving the decades, was core to Jeremy Scott’s collection. Heavily centred around the 80’s, as well as the 00s and 50s in equal measure, Scott’s SS17 collection was bold. Toothpaste tubes, sequins, polka-dots, bubbly text and midriffs. The show was ironic, fun and most importantly, wearable.
Stripes are an inevitability when it comes to style. There’s a reason. An everlasting style, combined with other patterns or fabrics, and with a multitude of ways to design the stipe, It’s a style never to missed out of a fashion week.
The Opening Ceremony and Diane Von Furstenberg collections, were two that brought the stripe to life. And it was Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders, newly appointed chief creative officer of DVF, who was behind the new and somewhat unexpected look of the DVF SS17 collection.
Co-ords have become a popular style choice, and it hasn’t stopped just yet. A varied version of the traditional suit is an exciting one to spot from waistcoats with cropped to pants, to jacquard skirts and jackets.
Beach waves and simple styles. Sometimes simple is the key. Many designers took to this idea in hair and beauty. Slicked back, structured ponytails with wild strands, relaxed smokey eyes as seen at Rebecca Minkoff and the hair transformations at Alexander Wang – inches of hair cut backstage, surfer-inspired styles and dark roots.
Bright colours. Bold beauty looks. Vivid accessories. It was seen across NYFW.
Wild could describe Jeremy Scott, as well as some of the beauty trends, but in celebrating their 10th Anniversary, The Blonds held the show at Milk Studios. The hair was wild, the influences were vast and the collection was extravagant.
Yellow. Lots of yellow. It was the colour of SS16 and we’re seeing it again in abundance.
The idea that yellow is a tricky colour, is now diminishing, as Thakoon, Georgine, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Tibi, are just a few collections that featured yellow, and that are making us swoon over it.
Y: Youth and Future
DKNY gave us a futuristic insight. What does the brand hold for the future of New York style? “Neo Soho” is what they call it.
Animal prints, safari styles and floral prints. Inevitably, they arise across many collections, but Altuzarra had it all. Contrasting snake skin base fabrics with 3D embroidery and appliqué design. Lemons embellishing jackets and cherries covering python skin.