Since 1851, Aquascutum has been a part of British tailoring and now, in their 165th year, they celebrate with a presentation at London Fashion Week. There was no place more fitting than at Grosvenor Place for the celebrations to take place.
Models lounged as styled by Lorenzo Posocco, champagne was scattered and the decor was sublime. The SS17 collection, in collaboration with Fleet Ilya, saw printed silks, leather bralettes, delicate layers and inevitably, Aquascutum’s iconic trench coat.
“For the first time, the men’s and women’s collections will be revealed together and will be available to purchase straight after.”- Burberry
“Visit our new London show venue from 20–27 September, as Britain’s finest makers, The New Craftsmen, bring the collection’s inspiration to life through installations, demonstrations and performances.”- Burberry
C: Car Park
The Brewer Street Car Park is the most recent home of LFW since its move from Somerset House. This year, designers taking to the car park include Eudon Choi, Gareth Pugh, Oliver Spencer and BFC Fashion Film in association with River Island.
D: Dinner with Filippa K in collaboration with Fantastic Man & The Gentlewoman
At the David Roberts Art Foundation, artichoke hearts, champagne, a select guest list and style came together for a late night dinner by Filippa K; in collaboration with Fantastic Man & The Gentlewoman to showcase the Fillipa K SS17 collection
“In partnership with The Gentlewoman and Fantastic Man, Filippa K is hosting an intimate dinner/cocktail revealing her lookbook for her spring/summer 2017 collection. “- londonfashionweek.co.uk
E: Emerging Designers
Emerging designers embody the essence of London Fashion Week. This year is no exception with the designers to watch being Alice Archer, Roberta Einer, Paula Knorr, Caitlin Price and Marta Jakubowski.
F: Fashion East
Richard Malone, Mimi Wade, A.V. Robertson and Matty Bovan are the four designers heading to the East of London. Matty Bovan is the newest addition to the three designers from last year for Fashion East’s 12th year.
“The Fashion East showcase is always a great indicator of the next wave of new talent in our industry. As innovation is at the heart of London, it is a really exciting addition to the schedule and one we are proud to continue to support.”-Sheena Sauvaire, Global Communications and Marketing Director, TOPSHOP
Matty Bovan, who had previously worked with Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu, brought neon, multiple-fabric layers, shards of textiles and a plethora of colour. Tatty Divine collaborated on the earrings whilst there were bags by Coach, sunglasses by Linda Farrow and customised by the Bovan.
Mimi Wade created MimiMount- a place referencing Hollywood movies and all that surrounds them. The women, memorabilia and L.A providing inspiration for printed fitted dresses with ruffle details, t-shirts, pencil skirts, printed slip dresses and bright colours all round.
For A.V. Robertson’s second collection with Fashion East, flowers were in bloom. Heavily embellished, organic floral details climbing amongst suits, dresses, knickers and sheer tops. Robertson looked at Sci-Fi. Aliens, space and our postulated future relations with such life drove her decadent collection.
It was stripes all round for Richard Malone SS17. Horizontal, vertical, curved and fragmented, and all in blue, orange, yellow, white and green. Sport meets classical summer.
G: Gareth Pugh
Designing the costumes for the new opera at the Palais Garnier in September 2016 has been his most theatrical endeavour this year; but even that hasn’t stopped Gareth Pugh’s 8pm show at the BFC Show Space on Sunday.
For this SS17 collection, Val Garland was in control of the make-up matching Pugh’s dramatic pieces. Bold, striking, psychedelic. An ecclesiastical collection of black and gold. The sun playing a centre role. Mosaic gilded yokes, tunics and matching trousers, tailored suits and striking purple dresses. Despite the onset of dramatic pieces, the collection becomes effortlessly wearable.
H: H&M x LCF Designing for Sustainability
H&M and London College of Fashion celebrated the launch of the 2016 Designing for Sustainability project. Students from BA (Hons) Fashion Design & Technology Womenswear and BA (Hons) Fashion Jewellery, came together in designing capsule womenswear collections.
Eight winning collections were chosen and placed on display in five London H&M stores until the end of London Fashion Week.
“Our collection is focused on a zero-waste concept. We used textile techniques to create a completely new fabric with scraps of unwanted parts of garments. We tried to modify the original elements of the waste garments whilst also displaying the original starting points of the designs.” Student Jaehwa Rhee
“Amy Powney’s mood board for her Mother of Pearl SS17 collection must have been a joy to look at. Basing her designs on the 1989 film anthology New York Stories, three shorts by Martin Scorsese, Francis Ford Coppola and Woody Allen, the imagery she was inspired by could not have been anything but extraordinary.” – Wonderlandmagazine.com
Tatum Jones kicked off London Fashion Week SS17 with a love affair of Scotland. With the help of L’Oréal Professional and Mac Cosmetics backstage, thirty-five womenswear and menswear looks cascaded down the catwalk. Printed and quilted jackets, floral patterns and an amalgamation of fabrics, the design duo started on a high.
Knickers at LFW go beyond very basic underwear. Felder Felder, PA5H, Ana Ljubinkovic, Ashley Isham and Margaret Howell upgraded the knicker.
London Fashion Week doesn’t live within the confines of catwalks and show spaces. The city takes over. Events include: BURBERRY AT MAKERS HOUSE, CARNALLY (shopping and live streams), ETHICAL INSIGHTS TALKS, RIBA AND REGENT STREET and SHAKESPEARE REFASHIONED AT SELFRIDGES,with a full list available here.
M: Marta Jakubowski
As mentioned, Jakubowski was helmed as one of the designers to watch, and as of Friday afternoon, she proved why. This Royal College of Art MA graduate showed her collection at the BFC Presentation Space. At times you can see hints of her experience working at Alexander Wang, Hussein Chalayan, Jonathan Saunders and Bruno Pieter.
Models on a carousel draped in a deep rose fabric. The models adorned in a similar and differing fabrics. Cut-outs, heavy, oversized blazers and geometric makeup.
N: Natasha Zinko
A garden party? An outdoor gathering? Perhaps washing dishes in the kitchen after a grand dinner? At No.4 Hamilton Place, Zinko’s collection was a piece of theatre in itself. Whimsical glamour. Modern haute couture. Traditional femininity meets androgyny. Gowns nipped in at the was it, flowing kaftan-like dresses and tuxedo blazers came together in live performance.
Drama was high at London Fashion Week. From the head-pieces at Gareth Pugh, large garments of Roberts-Wood, the collar-like structures at Richard Malone and inevitably, with the details of Simone Rocha’s collection.
Pink always seems to find it’s moment. Molly Goddard made it a subtly featured colour. A billowing, oversized tutu, reminiscent of Bianca Stratford’s prom dress in 10 Things I Hate About You. Sheer dresses, lots of ruffles, stripes and delicate shapes. Ruched gingham, top-knots, red lipstick and coordinated bra-knicker combinations.
Nick Waplington’s photographs of New York’s underground parties formed a vague narrative to the show.
Q: Quiffy Refuelled
From the man that brought us Mr Quiffy, comes yet another great collection. House Of Holland SS17 was explosive in both colour and pattern. An amalgamation of fabrics, slogan tees and gingham laced shoes. A nostalgic energy celebrating the brand’s tenth birthday. The updated slogan tees match the time with quotes like ‘I’D BE SLEAZY FOR A BIT OF YEEZY’ and ‘LET’S BREED BELLA HADID’.
“House of Holland is celebrating its 10 Year Anniversary in September 2016 and in anticipation have released 22 slogan T-Shirts. These provocative tee’s featuring some of Fashion and Social Media’s biggest players have already become a coveted fashion piece- thanks to Katie Grand’s endorsement in LOVE Magazine.”
Ten years from the start of his London Fashion Week journey and the translation of his ideas upon the catwalk are still going strong. As with many of the collections this season, the collection was available after the show.
When it comes to fashion, describing something as ‘raw’ is often not a bad thing at all. And when it comes to Canadian designer Steven Tai, of Steventai, it’s a great thing.
Comfort and wearability are key. High necklines and collars, neat, clean edges with the occasional rough hem, tailed long shorts and a very tight colour palette. Tomboy meets girl-next-door.
S: Sophia Webster
“I am delighted to be partnering with the British Fashion Council for London Fashion Weekend this season. To celebrate this partnership and exciting time of year in fashion, I have created a limited edition tote that draws inspiration from my spring/summer 2017 collection. I can’t wait to unveil the tote in September!” – Sophia Webster via londonfashionweek.co.uk
T: Theresa May
Welcoming the British fashion industry to Number 10 Downing Street, Theresa May can be seen as the woman who opened London Fashion Week. Guests included
Ultramarine is one way to describe Faustine Steinmetz SS17. Hand-weaving and hand-dying and all that is blue. The presentation space was filled with models adorned in heavily embellished trousers, name-embezzled pockets, deconstructed dresses and sheer garments. There was also lots of glitter.
V: Vivienne Westwood
At the 10 Downing Street reception, none other than Dame Vivienne Westwood attended in a ‘Theresa Talk Vivienne’ t-shirt. Westwood has also had her foot firm on the LFW schedule this year staring off with the Galeria Melissa presents Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Rocking Horse shoe. The collaborative project sees Westwood’s iconic shoes revived by the Brazilian footwear label.
“Melissa has always been working on plastic interpretations of iconic styles. The Vivienne Westwood Rocking Horse was perfect for our new collection, as its classic ballerina shape blends Westwood’s own unique punk style with references to dance movements,”- Raquel Scherer, Melissa’s head of marketing and business.
Since starting her own label in AW15, Sadie Williams, with the support from NEWGEN, is back with a collection away from conventionalism. Stripped right back to simple textiles with boat-knots, patchworks and pleats, integrated as one, the collection becomes somewhat more complex.
Everything was mesh. Everything was transparent. Sometimes things were entirely bare. From pieces at Faustine Steinmetz to Jakubowski, Goddard, Christopher Kane and Topshop Unique.
Both fun and colour have been at the very heart of many collections. Fyodor Golan, Charlotte Olympia, Bellie Jacobina and Han Wen, are just a few collections that brought that down the catwalk.