The Line up
Back to couture after six years, Alaïa’s Autumn/Winter 2017 Couture collection was shown at his Rue de Moussy atelier in Paris. Consequently to their professional relationship, Naomi Campbell opened the show and lead the finale surrounded by Alaïa’s bright prints, structured collars and futuristic details. Making a striking comeback, Alaïa’s aesthetic was at one with itself- pristine, fun, wearable- a true collective and hopefully an insight into things to come for the designer.
300m2 of exhibition space has been dedicated to seventy years of the Dior brand. As Maria Grazia Chiuri has taken Dior into its seventieth year, the Museé Arts Décoratifs has become home to over 300 dresses from the Dior archives and loans from museums and private collections. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams is the largest exhibition in any discipline to have been shown at the museum and has been celebrated alongside Chiuri’s highly celebrated collection.
Favourite of the spring/summer 2009 catwalks, blue may be making another comeback. The Elie Saab collection cascaded down the catwalk in a rich blue similar to that at Guo Pei. Hints of blue denim were seen at Viktor & Rolf whilst dusty blues were seen at Valentino and in Alberta Ferretti’s Limited Edition.
From metallic foil and paper lip transfers to sans-cosmetics, beauty on the catwalks was highly diverse. Striking eyes were the feature look at Armani Prive whilst Chanel’s rainbow eyes have fallen right amidst Pride week.
In the early 1900s, Paul Poiret made contributions to fashion that have remained foundational to women’s clothing. A pioneer in his field, and heralded a maverick, the demise of the brand had since been seen as eternal. However, it has been revealed that Chung Yoo-kyung has hired Yiqing Yin to resurrect the brand of Paul Poiret. The industry, alongside these two powerful and talented women are keeping their cards close to their chest revealing nothing more than minor talk.
If 55 looks at Elie Saab didn’t fill the decadence quota for Couture week, thankfully, it seemed most of the designers had the same idea. Fendi, Armani Prive, Giambattista Valli and Atelier Versace followed in suit.
Karl Largerfeld’s Fendi collection was, as expected, something fairytale like.
“By dreaming of flowers from another world, a strange and ethereal beauty emerges.”, Fendi.com
Watch the show here
As Poiret may have once created a controversial kimono coat, this couture season, Dior, Yumi Katsura and Valentino have all upscaled the kimono in some way. Adorned with fur, embroidered with floral embellishments, cut in unique fashion and layered with a variety of garments, the kimono is in!
Muted colour-palettes have been seen across Couture week so far, but hints of multicolour have been popping up throughout. Whilst Chanel opted for their makeup to be all shades of the rainbow, Giambattista Valli used varying colour across the collection. Valli’s floral decorations combined a mixture of colours on the bodices of dresses or drawing the collection together as a colour collective. The patchwork coats of Dior were unexpected but very well received. Ronald Van Der Kemp’s collection was an exciting showcase of bright colour and contrasting colours whilst Schiaparelli’s muted blend of colours created a very different effect.
Seen at, but not limited to Giambattista Valli, Dior and Proenza Schouler, the ponytail made a major comeback. Slicked-back, messy, prim, either way, the ponytail is a must-do.
The suit is here to stay and it’s been given several makeovers since it’s early days as a part of womenswear. Though almost every designer has created their own version of the suit, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Armani Prive and Chanel seem to be the most coveted at the moment. Classically tailored, partnered with contrasting co-ordinates, embellished with sequins and heavily quilted, the suit has become one of fashions most exciting garments.
The sets often become an entity of their own. Chanel and Dior’s were by far the greatest in scale. The glass atrium of the Grand Palais was this seasons setting for Chanel as a replica of the Eiffel Tower was erected before classic tweed suits, delicate chains, feathered rosettes and silk and tulle dresses. It was however, Iris Van Herpen’s Aeriform show that may be one of the most intriguing.
Herpen’s show marked her tenth anniversary and she celebrated with 3-D-printed creations that blur the lines between technology, art and fashion. The collection was formed with an amalgamation of highly creative pieces including her signature peice- the the Aeriform dress. But it was Danish group sunken in water-filled behind this fashion extravaganza that have caught attention- and it wasn’t their first time.